For many winter photographers, seeing and photographing the Northern Lights is an absolute dream but unless you are one of the lucky few to live very far north or very far south, you'll likely need to plan a trick to the Arctic to get your fix. Either way, seeing the Northern Lights in person should definitely be a bucket list item for all photographers.
Northern lights are quite difficult to explain but let’s try to make sense of this incredible phenomenon.
The sun emits energy particles constantly. During high solar activity, you may hear about a solar flare. This is when a wave of particles from a coronal hole moves as what we call a solar wind.
The earth's magnetic field is a shield that starts at the two poles and surrounds the planet like a big force field. Protection against solar activity is therefore more effective at the equator, rather than at the poles where the magnetic field is vertical and more direct.
The magnetic field attracts solar winds. When a strong eruption occurs, it will follow the Earth's magnetic field to the poles, and the solar wind has the opportunity to pass through the shield. Then we speak of a geomagnetic storm.
Solar particles come into the atmosphere, they ignite and become visible as bright, often green glows in the sky. These are the auroras. The stronger the magnetic activity is, the more it extends and covers the globe towards the equator. In other words, the further north you go, the better it is to see small auroras as well as big ones!
We often talk about aurora borealis because they are the ones we can observe most easily, but in reality we call this phenomenon polar aurora (or aurora polaris). The aurora borealis appears in the northern hemisphere, and the aurora australis in the southern hemisphere. If you look at a globe, you will quickly understand that it is easier to see aurora in the northern hemisphere, instead of the southern.
There is a scale to measure the intensity of an aurora, it goes from KP0 to KP9. Globally, up to KP 3 it is an arch, but the further north you are, the higher it is in the sky. From KP4/5 on, it's a much bigger shape and a much stronger light that appears in the sky and dances at an incredible speed. And beyond that, the aurora is no longer just green but can take on pink and red hues.
A camera of course! You don't need to have the latest camera. But you have to know that the more you have the ability to go up in ISO, the more you pictures would be sharp and noiseless.
Wide-angle lens is great to be able to integrate a nice foreground in addition to the northern lights show in the sky. The lens must have the largest aperture possible, like f/2.8 or f/1.8. If you want to invest for an APS-C, I’d recommend the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 which fits several brands. If you use a full-frame camera, I’d recommend the Sigma Art 14mm f/1.8 which is the lens I use.
Your tripod must be both very stable to withstand wind and snow, and strong enough to support the weight of your equipment. Some important criteria to choose a tripod are:
I have an in depth article on how to choose a tripod but it's in French, so you'll need to brush up on your language skills or use Google Translate. :)
A remote control is very helpful to avoid vibrations of the shutter release, and to not use the camera timer.
And finally, don’t forget your beautiful Vallerret gloves! They are your best friends and will keep your hands warm when you spend the night out waiting for northern lights!
Left: Otertinden, Norway. Right:Straumnes, Lofoten
First of all, I advise shooting in manual focus. Focusing at night is not an easy thing to do, so if you mess it... You'll be disappointed to have a blurry picture. I'm telling you, I've lived it!
The best way is to do an infinite focus either day or night on your lit car with an important distance for example. You can also focus manually by lighting something far in front of you with a headlamp. Or you can use focus peaking for those who have this setting on their camera. The small lines will allow you to focus on the top of a mountain or on the stars.
Regarding the settings, I also advise you to shoot in manual mode. A basic set-up would be something like:
Finally, speed will be the setting you need to monitor the most. If a very strong aurora appears, it will produce a lot of light which will allow you to shoot faster and lower your ISO. To capture the draw of quick movement of these strong auroras in your photo, do not use too slow a speed.
If, for your first time, you are afraid to miss it, you can also put your camera on priority aperture. The speed will automatically adjust itself according to the intensity of the light and your picture will not be overexposed.
Left: Kirkjufell, Iceland. Right: Dimmuborgir, Iceland
In the Nordic countries, the weather is capricious. However, to see auroras, you need clear sky and avoid light pollution. You can't control Mother Nature, so you might put all the chances on your side!
SpaceWeatherLive offers aurora borealis predictions over 1 month here. These forecasts are not guaranteed, they are the result of the geomagnetic activity detected. On the home page you’ll find the strength of the current auroras on the scale from KP0 to KP9.
SoftServNews gives you the auroras forecast for the next 45 minutes and it is quite correct most of the time.
If you go to Iceland, EN.VEDUR website allows you to follow very precisely the cloud cover. It is very useful to move according to the weather and adjust your itinerary if you are in a camper van. Maybe that at 1h drive from your position there is a clear sky window to shoot!
Live Aurore Networks allows observing the sky through cameras installed in Iceland and Norway. You can check the cameras located around you to see where the auroras appear. You can also watch it during the weeks before your trip, to get you excited about your trip.
If you are going to Norway, I recommend the application or website YR.no - to follow the weather. The forecast was perfect when we drove 14 hours round trip from Norway to Finland to find 1 hour of clear sky.
The most important advice if you are going on northern lights hunt is: HAVE PATIENCE! This is a stunning phenomenon to witness so be patient and enjoy the show. You will not be disappointed. ;)
This article was written by Vallerret ambassador Aurora Alifanti. Aurore is a french photographer passionate about cities and nature landscapes. Travel means happiness for her, and this is how she fell in love with Nordic landscapes. She thinks that the most important thing in photography is feelings. A beautiful picture is an image that provides emotions. She shares her passion and vision of photography through a french blog to learn photography and editing. You can follow her on instagram here: @auroe_alifanti
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Norway is an iconic photography location sitting at the top of many photographer’s travel wishlist. As a Norwegian company, we may be biassed but we think our backyard is one of the best spots for landscape photographers. We may be known for our Viking history and brown cheese but for the keen landscape photographer, this country has so much to offer.
FIND YOUR SIZE:
|Unisex Size Guide||XS||S||M||L||XL||XXL|
|Hand Girth||cm||18 - 20||20 - 21||21 - 22||22 - 23||23 - 25||25-28|
|inch||7.1 - 7.9||7.9 - 8.3||8.3 - 8.7||8.7 - 9.1||9.1 - 9.8||9.8-11.0|
|Hand Length||cm||16.0 - 17.5||17.5 - 18.5||18.0 - 19.0||19.0 - 20.0||20.5 - 22.0||22-24.0|
|inch||6.3 - 6.9||6.9 - 7.2||7.1 - 7.5||7.5 - 7.9||8.1 - 8.7||8.7-9.4|
|EU Size Equivalent||EU 7.5||EU 8||EU 8.5||EU 9||EU 10||EU 11|
|Unisex Glove Models: Markhof Pro 2.0 | Skadi Zipper Mitt | Ipsoot | Alta Over-Mitt | Merino Liner Touch | Primaloft/Merino Liner | Urbex | Powerstretch Pro Liners|
|Female Size Guide*||XS||S||M||L||XL|
|Hand Girth||cm||16.0 - 17.5||17.5 - 18.8||18.5 - 20.0||20.0 - 21.5||-|
|inch||6.3 - 6.9||6.9 - 7.4||7.2 - 7.9||7.9 - 8.5||-|
|Hand Length||cm||15.5 - 16.5||16.3 - 17.2||17.0 - 18.5||19.0 - 20.0||-|
|inch||6.1 - 6.5||6.4 - 6.8||6.7 - 7.3||7.5 - 7.9||-|
|EU Size Equivalent||EU 6||EU 7||EU 8||EU 9||-|
|*This size guide is specific only to W's Nordic Photography Glove|
Please note, our gloves are designed to fit snuggly to give you the best camera feel without compromising on warmth. If you prefer a looser fit, please consider to go a size up.
As we learn more and more about gloves we also learn that all hands are different. Some people have long skinny fingers and slim wrists, others have wide hands with short fingers.
Our gloves wont fit all even with the right measurements from the sizing chart – but we try!
For many, the best option will be to go up a size if your measurements are in between sizes.
If you are between sizes or if your hands do not fit into the measurements on our sizing chart, we recommend prioritizing the fit for the girth measurement. The girth is the most important measurement and if the girth size on the glove is too small, you won't be able to fit the glove.
If you’re considering pairing a liner glove with your photography gloves, we recommend choosing the same size liner as photography glove. We designed our liners to be thin and fit inside of our photography gloves so we recommend your normal size in liners. There are two exceptions to this:
Exception #1: If you are at the very end of the ratio size in the sizing chart, e.g. 1 mm from being a size Large, then we advise going up a glove size if you plan to often wear the liner with the gloves.
Exception #2: If your personal preference is to wear fairly loose gloves, then you should also go up a size when adding a liner. We don't recommend this as you will compromise dexterity with loose gloves and our priority is best possible camera feel. But you know best what you like!
House tip: Make sure to choose a liner size that is snug/tight on your hand for the best Fliptech performance when wearing liners and gloves together.